Skyline Drive's legendary -- a national park often rated as one of the top 10 cycling routes in the United States -- and for those of us in the D.C. area, pilgrimages are frequent. It traces the ridgeline from Front Royal south to its terminus into the Blue Ridge Parkway 105 miles later. To the west lies the Shenandoah Valley, with its alpaca farms, meandering rivers, and verdant country lanes all juxtaposed against the sawtooth ridges of West Virginia.
The Virginia piedmont, with its rolling hills, unfolds to the east.
And so it goes, vista titration for over 100 miles of road with nary a flat foot to be found -- cruising on perfect pavement where cars are few and face a 35-mph speed limit. A paradise for climbers! And then it turns into the Blue Ridge Parkway, which is more of the same.
|Skyline Drive elevation profile.|
Taking a look at the map, the ride starts in the NE corner at Front Royal, cruises south the length of Skyline and then onto the Blue Ridge Parkway, where it continues south to Buena Vista. It then descends west into Buena Vista, loops back to the east, and then climbs back up to the ridgeline all the way back north to Rapine, where you descend to the west once again for the overnight stop. One challenge with this arrangement is that the overnight stop comes at mile 227, well past the halfway point, and almost inevitably well after dark. It makes for an exceedingly long and hilly first day, but at least the route is easy to follow!
|7-Eleven breakfast for the win!|
|Red sky at night, randonneur's delight; Red sky at morning, Rando take warning.|
Things went without a hitch for the first several hours. In fact, despite my relatively heavy load, I set some Strava personal records in the early part of the southbound leg.
|Peaceful as you like.|
|Proof of passage: I had to take photos of my bike at certain locations.|
|Big Meadow Wayside. On the other side of this building, there's a meadow whose size I can't remember.|
After that, it was back on the road south toward vistas anew.
And some of these, too.
|Taken over my shoulder as I rolled past.|
It was in this area that I made my first mistake. I hit the control at Loft Mountain Wayside, at mile 79.5, at about 9:45 a.m. I put a couple of candy bars in my pocket, filled my three bottles, and rolled out without issue, thinking that my next refueling stop was at Humpback Rocks at Mile 111 (just over 30 miles away). When I got to Humpback Rocks a couple of hours later, ready to restock, I found that they had literally nothing except water -- not even the sort of snack food one comes to expect.
I was out of everything, and looking at the cue sheet, the next stop was in Buena Vista at Mile 156 -- 45 miles away. On Skyline, that could easily be a three-hour stretch. I got some water and rolled out, hoping for the best. It would wind up being about 77 miles between refueling stops. Note to future riders: don't count on Humpback Rocks for much of anything. For the next few hours, I'd be riding on pan y agua, sin pan.
|Heaven looks like this.|
A couple of thoughts on this. First, when you're soaked and shivering, sometimes it's worth it to spend some time hanging out under the hot-air hand dryers in the men's room; a warm, dry cap can be particularly welcome. Second, not all fellow patrons will look favorably on this behavior. Third, Burger King now has something called "chicken fries," which are chicken strips in the size and shape of French fries. They are truly terrible. Also, they are amazing, and I can't recommend them highly enough. If, as I did, you pair them with two order of normal fries and a fried chicken breast sandwich, it's actually possible to form a protective layer of fat and cholesterol that will insulate you for miles. For dessert, I highly recommend a king-sized roll of Sweet Tarts.
Thus sated to the point of waddling, I rolled out for the final 50 miles or so. I was moving along well, and it seemed I'd have a long overnight rest to enjoy if I could make it there. The miles immediately after Buena Vista are some of the more forgiving on the route; they aren't flat, but they're largely meandering through side roads in the valley. Eventually, though, it was time to head back up to the ridgeline for the journey north to Raphine.
|"Here come the hills, a-gain..."|
|Jammin' over the James (River).|
The climb back up to the ridgeline was an 1800-foot grind, although it was tranquil enough. I was chasing daylight but on pace to get to Raphine by 8:30 pm.
Sadly, it was not to be. As soon as I regained altitude, the rain started dumping again, and it felt like, no matter how far I went, I was seeing no sign of the turnoff for Raphine. Eventually I figured out why: in the rain and descending darkness, I'd gone miles past it, and of course, those miles were straight uphill. Wet and irritated, I turned around and headed back, but by then, it was dark and the tropical storm was in full effect. Worse, to get from the ridgeline down to Raphine, I had to descend the notorious Vesuvius climb (named for the tiny town at its base). It's several miles long, with grades that regularly exceed 15%, and on a potholed country road under dense tree cover. It's also exceedingly technical, with switchbacks and terrible sight lines. With pitch darkness and wet roads that seemed to suck up the lights from my headlight and helmet, it was one of the more terrifying times I've had on a bike, picking my way down the mountain at about 5 mph, dodging potholes full of water and trying to figure out where the edge of the road became a precipitous drop into the woods. Yuck.
In all, the detour and conditions cost me nearly an hour; I reached Raphine at about 9:30 p.m. and had a Wendy's banquet before mucking my way down the road to the hotel. There, after a decadently long shower, I spent about an hour desperately trying to figure out how to get my clothes dry. I laid some of them out over the A/C vent; other items, like my shorts, were hung in the direct blast of the hair dryer. If you've never smelled "cooked day-old chamois," I assure you that you're better off for the ignorance. Eventually I decided that the remaining items were just going to have to air dry; I hung them and hoped for the best, noting with some dismay that my theoretically waterproof shell was doing its best sponge impression.
With a 4:00 a.m. wakeup, I'd gotten 4+ hours of sleep, which ain't half bad in this sort of endeavor. My clothes were no longer dripping, and the storm had passed overnight. Frankly, I'd have been comfortable starting earlier, but given the sketchy weather and the fact that the first control (the market at Wintergreen Resort) didn't open until 7:30, I figured there wasn't much point in rolling out before 5:00. So I had a leisurely breakfast at Dunkin Donuts, filled the bottles and pockets, and headed back toward Vesuvius -- the hard way this time.
Vesuvius -- not ideal first thing in the morning when you've ridden 230 hilly miles the day before. But there it was, 3 miles, 1500 feet of elevation gain, and an average grade of 9% (and upward of 15% in places). I'd climbed it twice before, and each time it just seemed to keep going, and to keep getting steeper, at every turn. This time, I managed to get up it at a steady rate despite being weighed down by 3 full water bottles and all other manner of cargo. No speed records for sure, but that's ok.
Having regained the ridgeline, there was a straightforward 15-mile stretch to the north before the biggest challenge of the day: the route dropped down the ridgeline to the east, where it found the base of the Wintergreen Resort, and duly told us that the next control was at the top. Sweet! I knew Wintergreen, and it's just a beast.
2.3 miles at 9% average -- like a continuation of Vesuvius. Thing is, the full Wintergreen climb starts in the valley and climbs fully a mile past the market, where we'd stop -- it's 7 miles of unadulterated beastliness. Our portion was just a sample, though it wasn't exactly straightforward. I managed to set a personal-record time up it despite being far from fresh -- woot!
It turned out that I'd gone a little faster than I predicted; the market wasn't open until 7:30, and I wasn't in the mood to wait around for 20 minutes, so I took off and trusted that I could get by in the cool morning temperatures.
But first, one more challenge: from the base of the Wintergreen resort back up to the ridgeline is a mile, and it is absurdly steep.
Having reached the ridgeline once more, I headed north: 125 miles to victory! And a beautiful morning it was.
At times, I was far above the low-lying clouds filling the valleys, and it looked like distant hilltops were ships flowing on a sea of mist.
It doesn't get better. Somehow, despite the objective difficulty of the ride, I felt stronger as the day progressed and home got closer. I even blew away a couple of my all-time personal best times on climbs toward the northern part of Skyline. For example:
|35 hours and 33 minutes later.|
Final thoughts? This ride was tough physically but pretty easy mentally. With the exception of Vesuvius and Wintergreen, the climbs weren't too hard, even though there were many of them and they did stretch on for miles at a time. The pavement is great, which makes a huge difference, and the descents are largely joyful, relaxing affairs. The scenery is hard to beat, even if it does risk repetitiveness at times. And there's something to be said for having a cue sheet that amounts to "go straight for 150 miles." The interior of Alaska was the last time I've seen anything comparable.
In terms of comparisons between this SR600k and the Big Savage, I think the latter is clearly harder. My GPS put that one at 37k feet of climbing to this one's 35k feet. RideWithGPS puts them both at 37k feet. But whatever the case, I think the main difference is that, no matter how tired you get, you can pretty much just crank up a 5-6% grade, which is mostly what this route demands. Once things get up above 10% -- which Big Savage does all day long -- it becomes considerably tougher. The descents on Big Savage are also more demanding -- more technical and rutted. My only hesitation in this comparison is that my fitness for this ride was vastly better, and the temperatures were more moderate. Those things matter tremendously. Even so, on the whole, I'd award this ride the "King of the Vistas" prize, and Big Savage the "King of the Mountains."
Next up for me is the National 24-Hour Challenge in Michigan on June 18, and then the 520-mile Race Across Oregon on July 16.